Overwatch All Stars

Både jeg og min søster, Bettcanard, var så heldig å bli valgt ut til å spille i en av de europeiske Overwatch All Stars turneringene. Over hele Europa har Blizzard satt opp ulike  arrangementer og turneringer for å sette søkelyset på lanseringen av Overwatch. Vi ble en del av det norsk/danske laget som skulle spille mot Sverige, begge lagene bestod av flere YouTubere, gamere, komikere og i vårt tilfelle cosplayere. 

Photo:Håvard Staub Nyhus

Open Beta

Vår første oppgave var å øve så mye som mulig i løpet av Open Beta perioden i Mai, så jeg og  Bettanard bunkret opp med to PS4 i min stue. Dessverre fikk vi aldri en sjanse til å øve med hele laget (lover ikke godt for resultatet i turneringen).

Uansett så brukte vi tiden godt, vi ble fullstendig hekta og måtte prøve ut alle «heroes», finne våre favoritter og til og med legge noen strategier oss to imellom som vi kunne dele med resten av laget.

Siden vi spilte på PS4 betydde at vi måtte varme opp tomlene.


Ok, vi elsker spillet. Å til alles overraskelse så ble Mercy min favoritt, og etter et par «Play of the Game» med henne så tror jeg også at jeg hadde det som trengtes til å bli lagets healer. I tillegg så ble både jeg og Bettcanard veldig fan av å spille Junkrat med sin granatspam og «RIP tire» ultimate. Så fan ble vi at begge to ønsker å cosplay ham! Etter en rask runde med stein, saks, papir gikk  Bettcanard av med seieren! Jeg får heller finne noe annet å cosplaye fra dette spillet, med så mange skins så bare må jeg lage flere karakterer.


Etter et par «Loot Boxes» fikk jeg dette «skin?et» til Junkrat. Som etter at Betaen stenger vil forsvinne fra kontoen min uansett.  QQ


Rett før Beta stengte vi oppdaget vi «Random Hero Raffle». Svært vanskelig å tilpasse seg tilfeldige karakterer når du har blitt vant til dine topp fem.


Den store turneringen!

Første juni var vi klare til All Star turnering var her, det NO/DK laget ble fløyet til Stockholm hvor en stor Overwatch Hummer Limousine ventet på oss! Ikke feil dette nei :D



Før turneringen startet, så tok jeg og Bettcanard på oss litt uformelle Tracer og Mercy cosplay (ikke nok plass på flyet for å ta med hele). Også ikke lett å bruke både headset og glorie på samme tid, men jeg klarte det på en måte.


Okey, svenskene var sykt gode! Vi hadde fulgt med på oppdateringene dere på twitter i forkant og var klar over at at de var godt forberedt, men de eide oss fullstendig. Bare vent til videoene fra turneringene kommer ut ;)


Stor takk til Blizzard, vi blir lett med på noe slikt igjen <3 Og lurer du på hvordan Mercy kostymet er laget så ligger det tutorial her

Photo:Håvard Staub Nyhus

Bloody masquerade

Another older makeup that should be bought back to life

I apparently can't stop making stuff if I see an awesome idea. And the other day when I was browsing pinterest I found this interesting makup concept. This must be tried, and for you I documented the process. 
 Make up by Sandra Holmbom

And I was going to Kultcon and needed something to wear on the first day ;)

So the entire outfit with makeup was put together in just a couple of hours. 

You need a mask, and I didn't bother to make one to I bought a pre-made from Panduro.

After trimming it to my liking, I added a layer of glue to the front and several layers of tape and glue on the backside to get that "uneven flesh look". 

The inside was painted with red and dark brown acryllic paint, with a layer of glue over to get a more shiny effect efter it dried. 

For the front I used the same foundation I was going to use on my skin and sealed it with fixing spray. 

Then I added a few details as staple stitched along the rim. And a rod covered in a satin ribbon with feathers and a few single earrings I had laying around.  

A little fake blood was added in the end to make it look "freshly torn off". 

The mask
Build up with latex and tissue.

Then color the latex with dark brown and red acrylic paint. 

When it has dried you peel it off and use the mask as a template to cut it into shape. I wanted it to completely follow the shape of the mask. 

On the day of application use either liquid latex of skin glue to attach it to you face. Use Liquid latex to seal the edges. 

Touch up the paint and add fake blood with a stipple sponge around the edges. And droplets of blood down your face. 

I also applied a smoky eye beauty makeup with false lashes. And white contacts for max effect.  

Death Elf cosplay

How I made my own character, a death elf. Because I can. 



Death Elf - Skull Staff

I used mostly the same techniques as before (wood elf and Kraken staff) when making this staff. But it is fun to see the process, so here it is: My Skull staff (I need a better name).

Start of with... surprise surprise.. a card board roll, the core of a paper table cloth roll. 

Then I bought several fake skulls at a novelty shop, one for the staff and two for the pauldrons. Attached with hot glue. 

And then the head was blended in with paper mache (glue and newspaper).

Then I made a plaster cast of a small skull and made replicas for the top of the staff out of paper clay. 

First painted white and then weathered with light brown. 
Meanwhile on the other end ;)

On the end of the staff I added a plastic ball and made a claw out of paper clay. 

Paint and feathers

Other details were added using only hot glue gun.
Since this is a magical staff I wanted to use Norse Runes as the source of magic (and I choseElder Futhark version, since they origin from Scandinavia) 

It says Chrix Design

Spine inspired details along the back. 

Then I added a colored satin ribbon and feathers. And spattered it all with "blood" - watered out acrylic paint.

Ready for quest
Chrix Design


Some times you need Tassets. What is that you wonder? That's what the thigh armor is called I just found out. 

I used a cardboard box as usual. Worbla would have been better, but this is way cheaper ;)

And covered it with faux leather to match the pauldrons.

Then I added some rivets (I have about 500 left from my Morrigan costume)

Then the two pieces were put together and more skulls were added to continue the aesthetic line of the armor set. These are screwed on so they won't fall off. 

Test fit om the mannequin

And the same straps as with the pauldrons. The ring in the back is from an old curtain rod somebody wanted to throw out. 

Then it was time to weather the skulls and add some more details. 

The tassets were then attached to a belt. And done
As I have a lot of cosplay parts laying around I took advantage and reused some of them when creating a new Original character. 

First I start off with a concept - And I really like skulls so this time I thought I would go for something like a death conjuring battle elf (ish). No rules when it is an Original Design, yeay. I sketched up what I wanted.

The chest armor is actually the same I use for Vi, all I needed in addition was pauldrons and tassets (I actually just learned the name of that last part, thank you google)

Pauldrons I have made before for Vi and my Wood elf, so even though these were a little different I had some experience on this area.  

Tassets were a new experience, I had made thigh armor before, but not quite like this. Here is a write up of how I did it - mostly cardboard. 

 Photo by Artano Photography

For the rest of the outfit I just used "normal" clothes. Faux leather pants, some old shoes I could add details to, same with the cloves. And a plain black tank top under the chest armor.  

I could write a chapter alone on staffs. I really like making them as they are visually cool and easy to make. I might switch to bows, but not yet. But, yeah, I have made a couple of other staffs, like the one for my wood elf and my sea Goddess

So much of the same principles were used when making this one. 

Face and makeup
I suddenly found an old red wig have only used once before, so red it is. 

But the main effect of the face is the angry demon brow. The mold for this is originally made byKarin Olava Effects, the same I used for my red carpet demon. I made more gelatin, like withthe Sea Goddess

I was still an elf, so the pointed ears have to come on, these are bought at a joke shop. And to mask the bad edges I used earrings with a cuff. 

Add some contacts and you are ready. 

Steampunk Geisha cosplay

Some ideas just have to come to life

For about a year ago I posted a concept for a steampunk Geisha which I wore at Närcon 2012. In my eager to make new costumes I forgot to post the result here on the blogosphere. Well, I love how it turned out and we had an amazing photo shoot at a technical museum in Sweden.

My inspiration

My concept
And my result

Steampunk hat and goggles

We all need a hat and goggles sometimes

A Film Group from Bergen, Husky Film, commissioned me to make a Steampunk inspired hat and goggles that is to be used in a music video. That is so awesome. And the music is actually very good. Wanna listen: Jim Grim - Recalling

But I guess you are more interested in how the hat was made. 

This time I started with a novelty Byron hat and furry goggles. If you want to know how to build a hat from scratch then take a look at Bettcanards tutorials

The Hat

Sewing a cover of Brocade fabric. 

And I bought a cheap clock. 

Which I took apart and repainted

My plan was to integrate it to the front of the hat

Like so ;)

Buffed the lens of the clock to get a more diluded and worn appearnace. For this I used one coat of acetone (nailpolish remover) and polished the surface with a nail buffer. 

More details, here I have faux leaather biths and furniture nails. 

Adding them on the top

I like the effect.

For the back I added grommets, so to lace up the hat. Ad I couldn't find my hammer, these are only glued on (contact glue). This works since the hat wont be relaced and there will be no stress on the grommets. But for corsets you have to attache them the correct way. See the Morrigan corset tutorial for how to attach grommets.

But we need more details. The ideas is that the owner own the hat would gather small souvenirs from hos travels, like an empty bullet shell, small skulls, gears and feathers.  

In the end this is what I ended up with, and my client was very happy with it. 

The Goggles
This is actually what I started with :P Remove the fur and add some gold paint. 

The client wanted round and black glasses, so time to bring out the "car light spray tint", you know that spray people spray on their car light so they look black, here is a link to where I bought it at Biltema.

Then I sewed several strips of faux leather, that I glued on the edges using contact glue. 

And a few stitches were necessary by the nose bridge. 

Straps for the buckles must match the hat ;)

Also the back strap with the buckles had to match the hat. Same hue faux leather lines with the same red brocade fabric. 

But a steampunk adventurer need goggles with additional function, so a "zoom device" was created using an old watch glass and some worbla. The thing was screwed into the goggles, true mechanical style. 

All done

And I had to model it ;)

UPDATE: the video is now out. 
Video by Ken Robert Haltvik, Music by Jim Grim. See more information on Vimeo

How to make a crossbow that opens automatically

Automatic crossbow - Demon Hunter

For my stage show I needed something with a "WOW factor", and an automatic crossbow would be amazing.
Photo: Blizzard.com
You can see the crossbow in the cinematic trailer, at about 2:20

But to be able to make it open automatic at stage I needed a spring mechanism. This cheap umbrella open automatically when the release button is pressed. Hmm, I can definitely use this. 

Because of the mechanism I had to redesign the prop, so it could move freely along the axis. That means that the awesome horns that swirl around the extended " arms must be tweaked.

Let's go! I started by stripping the umbrella and adding cardboard details as a skeleton and a little foam to build up the form. After every bit I added I tested to see if it could still be opened and closed.  

Thin foam strips (2 mm) were added to created the ornamented details. 

YES! I can still close it. 

To keep it lightweight and cheap I used cardboard to create the scales of the horns. 

The only part of the bow where I have used worbla is the skull face on front, since the form was so organic. The worbla sheet was sculpted by hand to get the shape I wanted. 

More movement tests

Then I need to slap some paint on it and add a few LED ;)

In the end the prop turned out great :D And if you want to see it in action, here is a youtube video of the spring effect. 

Demon Hunter Cosplay from Diablo 3

Chest Armor

This is one fierce lady with full cover armor, so of course I had to make this costume. Demon Hunter from Diablo 3. This will be my first big armor costume and I will most probably use mostly worbla for the construction since the shapes of the armor is very organic. 


Worbla is a thermoplastic sheet which can be heated with heat gun or warm water. The material then gets flexible and can be shaped, bent or molded in any way, and even better remolded if you need the materials for something else later. You only need scissors to cut it, and all leftovers can be molded together so you don't waste any material. 

First up is her chest armor 
I figured that I could build the chest in layers and not use foam in between to save a little money. So I started of by making a one layers base shape. 

The Worbla is heated up and shaped over acrylic hemispheres. Careful not to stretch it too thin. 

With by basic shape done I added masking tape to draw up the patterns for the next layer. With focus on using as little worbla as possible I will only add details in visible areas. Other worbla makers such as Kamui often make whole pieces that the almost completely cover up with the next layer, therefor spanding way more material than necessary.

My pattern

When adding new layers be more careful not to get any dents in your armor, so you won't have to smoothen them out later. 

The collar will be visible from behind, so I'm adding a double layers of worbla with a cardboard core (holding it stiff and smooth)

Collar on. 

Repeat masking process to get the rest of the detail-layers.

Transferred to a sheet of worbla. 

And back on the chest. 

The cross ornaments in the making. 

And all the stripes and "bolts" are just more worbla added with care. 

The piece will be attached to my body together with a back piece being hold together with straps. These will be added when the back piece is done.

Demon Hunter Pauldrons

This have to be the most iconic piece of this armor and I wanted to make sure the looked badass - The pauldrons. 

Blizzard Demon Hunter concept art
Again I would use worbla, but I wanted to see if I could make the base out of cardboard and then cover it up with worbla and details afterwards. Also on the larger pauldron I needed to make horns and a mean skull face. All this without making the shoulders too heavy (as mentioned before, I'm weak and don't want to carry more than I need).
Small pauldron
I covered a balloon with paper mache and added details with cardboard. 

When it had dried I added details in foam.

Tha pauldron has several indents, created by just cutting away some of the cardboard. 

When done I covered it up with worbla, bringing out the foam details as I go along. I used a small wooden stick to press down the worbla (e.g. a pencil or chopstick. I started on the top and worked my way to the sides. 

All wrapped up

Thin strips of worbla was added along all edges to create dimensinon.

Under the pauldron there are a couple of smaller armor pieces which were made much like the leg armors, by covering foam with worbla and shaping ot over a ball. 
This a part of the leg armor
Large pauldron with horns
With the larger pauldron I had a little more touble to the the basic shape. But same method by using paper mache over a balloon and adding foam details in layers was essentially used. 

To get more depth to the mouth. 

Starting to cover it with worbla. 

Here I just used a blunt pencil to press in the worbla and bring out the details
For the skull piece I first made the form out of clay, then used that as a mold to shape the worbla, so I would end up with a light weight shell. 

A hollow skull shape

I filled the space with tin foil to help keet the shape up while I added the rest of the worbla. 

Before we move on with the skull details we need some horns. I build a basic grid out of cardboard.  

Filled that with expanding foam

And carved out the shapes. 

To be able to get the horns off the pauldron when needed, I added bolts to the horn base. Then I could screw them in place when needed. 


I used all my small left over pieces of worbla for teeth. The pieces were heated and shaped. 

Priming with gesso and glue, since I needed to get this peice pretty smooth. 

More testing with the chest piece I made earlier. 
I needed a small piece under this shoulder also. 

Painting will be covered in a seperate tutorial here.
Until then, enjoy the full effect of these enormous shoulders, I have to go sideways though the dors in our apartment. 

Leg armor

So many armor parts and so many techniques to use. Love this project, I have learned buckets. Here I will show how the thigh, leg and shoe armor was made. 

And I tried a few thing I have never tried before too, like curved shapes with cardboard base covered in worbla. In this tutorial I don't explain how worbla works, only how I have used it. 

Blizzard Demon Hunter concept art
Thigh armor. 
Since these pieces are single curved I thought I could use cardboard as a supporting core for the worbla, which worked great. I also alsmost always only use one layer of worbla. 

Some detail pieces were more curved, here I used foam (2 mm) as a core

Detailig done with thin strips of worbla

Leg bracer
This piece was way more curvy, so foam core all the way. 

I tried two methods here, the first where I used two seperate pieces attached with a seamline goind down the middle, and this (see picture below) where I used one piece and streched it over an acrylic sphere. 

All the pieces attached together and detailed with worbla strips.  

The knees are made from separate foam pieces covered in worbla.  

D-rings are added along the sides to attach the armor to my legs. More about the painting in a later tutorial.   

Shoe armor
Shoe covers need to be flexible, and form fitting to the shoes :)

Many armor makers forget to address the back of the shoes. Even though I have no idea what the look like from behind, I will make something interesting. 

Demon Hunter shield and Bracer

Since I did take some in progress photos I might just add a write up of this piece also. For the smooth surfaces I used cardboard as a base, with foam details in layers. The end piece is only foam. 

I wanted arrows to stick out of my shield, but to be able to pack and transport the costume I need to be able to take them off. For this I embedded M5 nuts into the cardboard and secured with worbla, while the corresponding bolt where attached to the arrows (You'll see later)

Then I gradually covered the top with worbla (only the top) and wrapped it around the edges. 

Since I was going to cover up the underside with fabric anyways I thought I would save a little by only using worbla on one side. The ornamented back piece would not be covered with fabric, so I tried to blend the surface using paper mache again, and it worked beautifully. 

I also made a bracer and a claw for the other arm. 

painting and detailing armor

So all of the parts of this costumes is now done and ready for paint. See here for build tutorials; Chest plate, leg armor, pauldrons, helmet, Shield and bracer

Worbla needs to be primed. To get a smooth surface you need about 10 layers of gesso or a thick layer of wood glue. Since I wanted a rougher surface for my "steel forged" armor I didn't have to prime so much. And this time I even used a spray filler (mostly for cars) in two layers. For some details I added glue and gesso to even out imperfections. 

Then I spray painted all parts (this saved me a lot of time). I altered by spraying dark grey metallic and misting silver and gold over that as a baseas a base. Several metallic hues gies more depth to your paint job. 

So many techniques.
Then it is time for details, weathering, battle damage, hightights and clear coating. 

First up I painted all teh gold parts with a brush. And took my dremel and added battle scars.

Here you can see on the right the same thigh with weathering (black paint smudged on) and on the left with both weathering and highlights (with a silver marker). 

The gold was also hightlighted with a gold marker. 

Lastly I sealed all the details with a clear coat. 

Really flat people on our beds (Next to mine is Karin Olava's Hunter from Destiny)

Hehe, I thought this was funny

Now that all the armor parts are done, maybe I should make a post about the textile parts of the costume and how it is attached to my body. 
he first edition of the costume it done and here are a few photos. 
Photo by H. Nyhus 

Photo by H. Nyhus 

Photo by H. Nyhus

Sea Goddess Original design

Sea Goddess - how to make that nose.

I finally managed to make an Original Character (OC) mainly because I wanted to learn how to make gelatin prosthetics and I really wanted to make a tentacle staff. 

But now to the fun part - how did I make this concept come to life. 
Photo by: Savage Studios

This tutorial will cover the special effect makeup aspect, while this post guide you through the Staff build. 

That nose
The most dominant feature is the nose, or rather the lack of it. This look is inspired by Peter Gaaland there even is a tutorial covering how to make it. I will still guide you through my process and some of my thoughts and what was difficult with this makeup. 

To make the mold.
I don't have a cast of my face nor a mannequin  but I found another solution. I bought a white plastic mask and added clay to that (for you norwegians, it is actually cheaper at Panduro that at Standard). Then I covered my model with plaster like in the instructable. I used a Styrofoam head to hold the mask

Photos from the instrubtable

To make the gelatin
The ingredients are: Glycerol (bought at a pharmacy), gelatin powder (not sheets, bought at any grocery store, but Coop Mega have larger bottles) liquid honey and warm water. 
From the receipt I found I have 1 part gelatin, 1 part glycerol and 1 part that is 50/50 honey and water.
It is easier to mix the ca right amount when using equal sized cups. 
Then you mix honey, glycerol and water and give it a go in the microwave (20 sec)

After those 20 second add the gelatin powder and even out all the clumps. Heat it another 20 seconds and stir some more. In the picture below it is not done, if it looks like this you must heat it another 20 sec. Do not overheat it, rather take several turns in the micro. 

When the mix is liquid and runny (and as clear as it gets) you can add it to you mold. 
And then you press the cleaned mask into it. (easier if the head is with it, more to push on)
AHA! Something went wrong
Watch out for air pockets. But if you screw it up, just reheat the failed cast a pour it again. It was surprisingly easy to reheat, just be careful to do it little by little so you don't boil the gelatin. You have to really press the mold and mask hard together. 
And it was hard to get nice thin edges, so I used a hot air gun to melt the edges while my almost finished gelatin shape was still in the plaster mold, and when the edges got a little runny again I used the back of a spoon to drag them out. (sorry no pictures)
This is the prosthetic after I took it off, hence why it has makeup on. 
How to apply. 
As seen in the JadeFX video it seem so easy, but I had a little more trouble with the edges. It was easy enough to glue on using Spirit Gum, and is was stuck the whole day 
One problem is of course that I could not breathe through my nose, so drinking and eating was hard. 
Photo by: Nils Katla Photography
Tips to apply make up. I used a grease based makeup (Kryolan) which can be applied to both skin, latex and gelatin. It is also important to use several colors or feather it. One even layer of one color will seem very flat. Bring out cheeks and eyes with highlights and contouring. When you apply prosthetics you will get a seam where it meets your skin. You can blend this with glue, latex or liquid gelatin, but if it is still visible you can add features that take the attention away from your flaws. Here I have added white dots down my face and most people look at them or the long eyelashes, big contact lenses (or the fact that the nose is gone) instead of my messy edges.
I just created my first full on original character with prosthetic appliances and all. And to show it off I entered the cosplay competition at Desucon which was also open for OC (Original Characters) and would you believe it, they liked it so much I won third place. Not bad for my first design. 

Sea Goddess - How to make the tentacles and fins

I got a lot of questions on how I made the tentacles in my hair and the fins on my arms. And they were surprisingly easy to make. 
Let's start with tentacles. 
I wanted to be able to curl and shape them as I pleased when they were done, so the core is wire. 
Then I twined wadding around and rolled it in plastic wrap (the "clingy" kind)
Then I gave it a couple of coats with liquid latex.
"All my suckers are cheerios"
Yes, I used cheerios for the suckers. I don't know if this is a solution that will last for ages, but for short term tentacle they worked magnificently. I dipped one and one cheerio in latex and attached it to the tentacle. Since latex bond very well to itself there was no need for glue. Then I covered the cheerio completely with latex and let it dry. Remember to powder latex or it will stick to itself when you curl the tentacles. You can powder with transparent powder (expensive) baby powder, potato flour or even regular flour if that is all you have. (Baby powder/talcum is preferred though)

Acrylic paint have a tendency to flake from latex, so I used grease based body paint (same as for the rest of my face) and added details with acrylic paint after. Again, remember to use several colors for detailing or it will look flat and boring. I like to use at least three colors for everything I do. 

This is the same tentacle; the wire makes it good and flexible
When done with painting I like to seal it with transparent powder, the expensive stuff this time to not dull the colors. And finish off with fixing spray. This will also give them a glossy look. And the paint won't rub off. 
They are attached to my hair using bobby pins. 
The fins
I am really pleased with how these turned out (my favorite part of the costume). And they are also simple to make. 
The spikes are cardboard and between is thin paper (matpapir på norsk). 

After glued together I covered it all with liquid latex

Then attached to the arm with spirit gum. The edges are feathered out using more latex and paper towels. 
Same procedure regarding the painting, grease paint, acrylic detailing and fixing spray. 

After the makeup is in place I added shimmer makeup to my arms and shoulders. This also take some attention away from any mistakes you might have made when applying it. 

The white dots also reoccur through every element of my costume (arms, face, ears, staff etc.)
And last - the ears
Thin paper with "hot glue gun" glue.

Adding latex

I took the fins off and painted them before gluing them back on on application day. Much easier to get all the details. Same color as with the arm fins and tentacles. 

Be careful not to glue you hair. The fin is just glued with spirit gum on top of my own ear and the edge is blended out with more latex. 

Another tip is to cover the edge with strands of your hair. 

I hope this helped a bit and that you will be creative and try to make something yourself. I would love to see what you are makeing, perhaps send me an email.

Sea Goddess - Making the staff of Kraken

I got several comments that my new Kraken Staff looked a lot like my Elvish Staff. I might see their point, but when you hold them together I hope you see the difference. 
The method I used is very similar to how I made the first staff. 

The core of a roll of paper cloth (yes I have many of those, because you never know when you want to make a Gatling gun)

The tentacles here are made with strips of foam mat covered in aluminum foil, to help keep it in shape. 

Then you glue them to the staff.

This time I wanted a larger orb with more lights. And I am looking for an easy way all the time. So I used a Christmas orb with integrated light that runs on batteries. The battery pack I hid inside the staff core with the switch reachable. The orb was frosted with a thin layer of white spray paint. 
Test assembly with orb

With the orb glued in place I covered all the tentacles with paper clay

For the staff I did not use cheerios, but every sucker is hand sculpted. 

The painting
For the Elvish staff I used a technique where I first paint a light color and then smear a darker color over which sets in the creases, called weathering.

The the Goddess Staff I use a little different technique. I first painted the tentacles a lighter orange/brown color. Then I used a sponge to add and feather a darker brown on all the "highest" ridges of the tentacles. The suckers were painted lighter orange/pink with feathered edges to the main color. Shadows and depth were added with darker colors in and around the suckers. 

The tentacles were blended in with the rest of the staff using a sponge and the weathering technique. I wanted the rest of the staff to have a colder, rock quality, so the tentacles would really stand out. 

Even more details. 
Down the length of the staff I added several details. Like Balanidae and sea stars which I made out of clay, and different sea weed made out of hot glue. 

Summoning Kraken

Here are some more shoots of my finished costume. 

Human heart clutch purse

Human heart clutch purse - how to make

As I was invited to the premiere party of The Mortal instruments: City of Bones a while back and I wanted to create my own demon design. This was after all a red carpet event with international movie stars and press, so I went for a more fashionable demon. And then I needed a fashion statement purse - in the shape of a human heart. 

Here you can read about how the horns were made. 

My awesome purse, want one? I will be selling these, custom made, but at the moment I am very busy. 

I needed to have room for my phone, keys, money and emergency makeup, and with that in mind I started sculpting. 

Step one was to block out the size using tin foil and tape.

Then adding clay and sculpting. In this case you don't want to use paper clay since you don't want the heart to dry up. Wet clay is easier to get out of the plaster mold when it hardens. Oil based clay can be used (or paper clay if you work fast).

Then I made a plaster cast. I am trying to make a two part mold, and made a dividing wall in my clay heart. 
Then I poured plaster over one side, and when it is dried turn it over and repeat. It is important to prep your clay with a releasing agent (in my case cooking grease) this will let the plaster release easier when cured.

Take away the dividing wall before adding plaster to the other side and add Vaseline to the edges.

Pull the two plaster pieces apart and clean out the clay.
(There is a reason people go to school to learn this, it is hard to make good molds. I have to practice more or take a course)

To make a smoother surface I painted the inside of the mold. First I tried my water based clear coat  that was a bad idea. It reacted with the latex. Next up I spray painted it, success. 

When my plaster cast was done I started to prep my latex. The reason I use latex is because this is what I have at the moment and it can take a little strain which is good since it will be opened and closed several times. To save time and maybe preserve some transparency from the latex I dyed it red using food color.

Filling the mold with latex. When it cures the color wont be so milky. 
The idea was to put the two halves together and slush cast, but my to plaster halves don't fit together. So then I made to halves of a heart (reinforced with toilet paper) and glued them together when dried using latex. 

My halves (color much darker)

Putting the two together and adding details. (doesn't look like much jet, but just wait). Reinforcing with paper from the inside and hiding the seem with latex from the outside. 

Slowly getting there

As I waited for the latex to cure I made the lining and what is better than red velvet for the inside of a heart <3 And adding a purse clasp. 

Testing that everything fits, and that I still have room for my phone. 

Fusing the lining, clasp and latex together

I'm so going to use this together with my next zombie costume and definitely for Halloween.

Photo by: Daniel Lange

How to make armor out of cardboard

The Dragon Warrior named "Cardboard"

So I didn't know what to name my new original character, which I though looked like a Dragon Warrior, so the people on my facebook page named her "Cardboard". 

Chest armor tutorial

Step one, make a base. To get the Boob cups I blew up two balloons in roughly my size and covered them in paper mache (newspaper, glue and water).

Then I traced a bra onto cardboard and taped the boob cups on. 

 Squares, so many squares. 

Each square is glued on with only a glue gun. 

Slowly getting there. 

For the edges I used strips of craft foam, again just glued on with a glue gun.

Before painting I covered the entire armor in wood glue. Then I did one layer of bright green acrylic paint. 

To get a more metallic look I sprayed it with a this layer of metallic grey paint. 

The edges were painted gold and all the scales first got dark shading and then the tips got a thin gold coat with a dry brush.  

Crossbow tutorial
I started with some cardboard and foam. 

To even out the shape I covered it all in tin foil. 

Then it is time for cardboard again. Layers folded around the base. 

The skull ornament is made from paper clay. Same goes for the tips of the bow. 

Foam and tape makes the handle and the core of my tin foil roll makes out the shaft. (I later shortened the handle as it looked too much like an umbrella handle)

The shaft was also covered with cardboard scales. And I had to add a few LED for the eyes and mouth. 

Next up painting and detailing. The arrow is made out of a chopstick, the head out of cardboard. Feathers were glued to the end of the arrow :)

The entire bow was painted metallic grey and weathered using dark acrylic paint. The string is only and elastic band.

The handle is foam with cardboard for support, then covered in faux leather. 

Pauldron tutorial

Horn tutorial

Corset tutorial

Making gelatin tutorial
The mold for the angry brow was made by Karin Olava Effects

And here is a youtube video of me putting on this makeup

Couture deer makeup

I made this makeup back in 2013 for a christmas party. With the holidays around the corner, it might be useful to showcase again. 

The Deer makeup have to be this seasons most popular look. I have seen several versions on the Internet these last days, but the one who caught my eye already in May (yes, I have been planning to do this makeup for half a year) was one from pinterest made by cheapfrillsandthills. She has also made a video tutorial for how to get this look. 

But I'm no fan of the "harsh outlined over sized eyes", they do not look good on me. I also did't like the harsh lines on the nose. So here are a few steps on how I made my look, including how I made my horns. 
My way
I still wanted large eyes, so I put in my 14 mm black circle lenses. And with a sponge I add white creme makeup a long my nose and around my eyes and forehead. 

I outlined my eyes with black eye liner and sealed the white creme makeup with white eyeshadow. 

Then I took an orange creme makeup on my cheeks and forehead, and covered it again with bronzer and golden highlights. 

Then with a q-tip dipped in white creme makeup I added the dots. Here I have also contoured under my cheeks. 

The nose got contoured with brown eye shadow and the brows are defined. With black water based makeup I painted the tip of the nose black. And last I took a brown eye liner and defined my lips. 

One more detail, add super long eye lashes. 

Then it is time for the horns
How did I make the horns? Very fast I tell you. Card board stencils.

Wrapped in tin foil

Covered in masking tape

Which again was covered in papermache and glue

And detailed with the hot glue gun
Place them on a headband 
Paint them light brown with a darker wash, add folded faux leather as ears and twine a red ribbon around. 
Merry Chrixmas ;)

PS4 Steampunk modification

PS4 modification The Order 1886

Karin Olava and I just had the opportunity to modify a PS4 for Nordisk Film in regards of the release of the new game The Order 1886, steampunk style.

With the permission from Nordisk Film, here is a short tutorial for how we went about with the modification. 

We wanted a clean design, no useless gears and cogs, and of course still have the machine work. Our starting point, two brand new machines, one white and one black. 

First we hunted for materials, using materials and textures from the game to inspire us. 

Our starting point

Old metal trays with gorgeous ornamented pattern would serve well as the base for out pressure gauge panels. 

And a fast way to change the texture is patterned vinyl foil, here in wood and marble. These can be bought at Panduro

Remember to clean the surface well before applying the vinyl. 

Looks really nice so far (and looks very heavy).

A panel of pressure gauges will take up much of the right hand side. 

Using scissors for metal we cut out the shape we wanted from the metal trays.

The disks for the pressure gauges were just printed, the needles are clock hands. 

Our panels need a borders, which is here made from leftover worbla scraps. Same goes for the glass which will cover the pressure gauges. We used a dremel and cut the shapes out of Plexiglas and added a worbla border which later were painted rustic gold. 

For the left hand side we used real leather (the texture gets so much better when you use real leather, metal and glass). To make sure the leather was glued on properly we took.. brace yourself... 60 grit sandpaper and scratched up the shiny new surface... Felt so wrong. Every detail is glued on using two part epoxy glue. 

To elevate the machine we added feet, made from a simple wooden frame. 

To indicate where the on/off and eject button is, we used these key chain labels, painted them gold and glued them on. 
This is how they ended up .

Even the corner fittings are made from real metal.

Making subtle hints that the mod is associated with the Order 1886. 

After all that work we could not let the controllers go untouched, but keeping the modifications here minimal. Leather coat for the handles and ornamented buttons for the joysticks. 

Everything is glued on, but it looks so clean. 

Bring on the drybrush weathering. 

All done :)

These two will be prizes in a "The Order 1886" cosplay competition. 

The Grinch makeup

The Grinch who pranked her colleagues

Last year I made a Couture Deer makeup for a Christmas party with my colleagues. This year I though the Grinch would be a perfect "costume", as it is only makeup, but will still got a lot of attention. To make matters even better I conspired with my talented sister Bettcanard to put on the same makeup and just confuse everyone I work with.

So operation "The Grinch who pranked her colleagues" was initiated. And the whole makeup process was filmed. Since I don't think you want to see an hour of green stuff being applied to out faces, you have to wait a bit for it to be edited down ;) 

Merry Christmas

All my costumes from 2015!

Another year and a ton of new costumes. This posts is more a a yearly diary for me to help me remember what I did and to see how much I develop over the years. If you are interested you can see sum up for 2014 and 2013 here :)

And what a year, several of my costumes are made just as a makeup or a closet cosplay, but they still give me alot of joy so I include them here. 


So let's take a closer look at these costumes :)

I got a challenge to do a 1920 Flapper look and got very excited by the idea. 

I was also lucky to get to take part in a promotional event for PlayStation Norway with a Steampunk outfit for The Order 1886

And even cooler was a commission I did for Noroff regarding an advertisement gig they had in April, featuring a Wow Frostfire Regalia made by me. 

photo: Sigve Aspelund/Tinagent


Qunari from Dragon Age Inquisition was made just because me sister made an awesome elf makeup. 

photo: Rojano Photo

I love group cosplay and made Shock from The Nightmare Before Christmas 

photo: Rojano Photo


Because I already had the Kraken staff and had only used it one time before I felt I needed to make a sort of Steampunk Sea Mage as an excuse to use it again. (also really fun to look pretty some times)

photo: Rojano Photo

I love Twi'leks, but their costumes can be a bit time consuming to make. But for May the 4th I made a closet cosplay of Cesi Eirriss, thinking the makeup would take 30 minutes... it did not. 

photo: Håvard Staub Nyhus

My sister was going as Tony Stark for the new Avengers movie, so I had to follow up with a closet cosplay of Black widow, I already had the hair in place ;)

One of my more different events this year was being invited as a cosplay guest to the Red Room Ball, a fetish event. The people I met were beyond amazing and I dressed up as a Ringmaster for the party. 

Another movie premiere, another closet cosplay, Mad Max apocalypric warrior

One of this years big projects were Mercy from Overwatch and I must say I learned a lot!


photo: Håvard Staub Nyhus

I was asked to make a costume for a small music video project for a school in Oslo, but suddenly they ditched the scene including my costume in the last minute. So I kept it myself and went out drinking looking like Cleopatra.

I love everything with Alice in wonderland and this was my take on the Red Queen

hoto: Håvard Staub Nyhus

I fell so much in love the the new Mad Max movie and ended up doing another group cosplay as warboy Slit. Most fun ever!


hoto: Håvard Staub Nyhus

And in an instagram closet cosplay challenge it was suggested I should make Furiosa also. All the Mad Max Love. 

The Fallout 3 Vault Dweller was this years "work on it only when I feel like it cosplay" which ended up me actually spending a full year and I still haven't any decent photos. 

One of the events I went to, Torucon, had pirates as their theme. I knew there would be a lot of Dragon Age cosplayers there, so I threw together a Isabela cosplay and I got really satisfied with the result. 


photo: Danarki Photo

And then we have this years most demanding and loved cosplay Red from Transistor. So many details and I pushed myself to make the best I ever could <3

The Little Sister cosplay was also one of these cosplays I had most of the parts done, but no deadline to finish. So when my sister made her incredible Big Daddy I hurried up and joined her for debut at Spillexpo. 

photo: Katrix Media Site

Halloween is always a fun opportunity to showcase a makeup or costume around people who  don't dress up as often as I do, and even with several ideas running through my head I had to go for the Succubus year. I think I have to make several more looks for the season next year. 



As a part of my recycle project I like to both recycle parts of my costumes and also upgrading costumes I already have. So here are a few extra entries. 

And looking back to the list of cosplays I wanted to make last January I happy to see that I managed to finish several of them. The rest might follow over to 2016 plans maybe :D

Liara - Check

photo: Heresetai

Dovahkiin third update

Photo by Danarki


Update on my Demon Hunter (made hood and some thigh armor that are slightly easier to walk in)

Photo by Danarki

Other adventures
I took part in a few different projects too, some personal and some really awesome cooperation's :D

  • I got to make a PS4 modification for PlayStation Norway together with Karin Olava
  • I made some Fallout 3 Easter eggs that I ended up looking really cool and that I gave to you guys ;)
  • For my birthday I made a Portal cake
  • I got to be part of two photo shoots for the upcoming cosplay photo book project CSPLY.eu 
  • Nominated for "Best International Cosplayer" by The Arcade for Arcade Awards 2015
  • I have taken part in a Norwegian documentary about cosplay (among other things) that will be aired mid 2016.
  • I participated in EuroCosplay representing Norway :D <3 <3 And getting 7th place!
  • And was "Christmas Calendar girl" number seven during this years cosplay showcase over at Cosplay Norway


I had so much fun and can't wait to start with new projects next year. As one last treat for you, this is a photo of me, my sister and my brother from Christmas eve, where we all dressed up as the brother ;)


Happy New Years!

Love from Chrix

Cleopatra costume

his costume was originally made for a music video project, but after I had finished it they suddenly changed their mind and didn't want to use it anyways. Last time I work for free, I can tell you that.  

But I did then end up with a brand new Cleopatra costume for myself and any occasion for a dressing up and taking some photos is appreciated. 

For my Cleopatra look I was first planning to wear a black braided wig, but the wig I had in mind was so ugly I had to do something else. So I made a headdress to hide away most of the hair.

The head dress
I started with a Styrofoam head and wrapped it in tin foil. If you don't have one of these then just start by wrapping your head in tin foil and then use a balloon as support for the rest of the build.

Then I covered it in masking tape. This will be my base :) A very fast way to get a dome without waiting for paper mache to dry. You should test to see of your Aluminum foil hat fits your head before moving on ;) 

Turning to my trusted cardboard I cut out two bases for the wings for the sides of the headdress. 

Slowly I added smaller strips of craft foam like feathers. Gluing them on with my glue gun. 



Keep adding foam


The back is also covered with foam. 

I had this ugly necklace with beetles, so I took one of them and added it to the front of my headdress.   

When done I covered it all with wood glue (another of my trusted materials). You might notice the "ornament" on the top of the head. This is just more foam wrapped in masking tape and glued on, the ball also, foam and masking tape. And then covered with several layers of wood glue. 

The headdress was hand painted with a rustic gold color (what I had at the time) 

And then weathered with watered out brown acrylic paint. 





The jewelry
I realized that some of the jewelry I had made for Morrigan Cosplay could work very well for my Cleopatra - win!


The chest
The dress was supposed to be a golden wrap dress, but I didn't have time to put it on for these photos. But I was still going to use my cardboard chest plate which I used for mydragon warrior the year before. 

The makeup
Youtuber Sabrina makes these amazing videos of historically accurate makeups and she had done one of Ancient Egypt. So I replicated some of her tips. 

Here's her video btw. She also did an historically accurate 1920 flapper makeup which I used while I did my own version of a Flapper Girl in January. 

More photos of me ;)





Because wrath XP

Building Mercy's Caduseus staff (Overwatch cosplay)

When I first saw the the reveal trailer for Overwatch I knew I had to cosplay Mercy. And I couldn't do that with out a mechanical Caduceus Staff :D My goal was to have it spin clockwise and glow yellow and counter clockwise and glow blue as it does in the trailer. Here's the tutorials for the wings and the overall costume

The build itself doesn't have that many new points, you have all seen worbla work on my page before. But the electronics in this project I must say that I love. Might seem simple at first, but it took some thinking, which I gladly share with you. 

So the first half of this tutorial will be about the circuit and the second about the actual build and assembly. I have included small videos for each step, but in the end of the tutorial there is a full video showing everything. 

You might know a lot about circuitry or maybe nothing at all. Hopefully I can explain this in a way so you can make use of this feature.  

Basic electronics  - how to make a led glow?
Very simple said, you need a battery and a led (and a resistor if the voltage is too high for the led). 

To make it more practical you can add a switch. You should note that an LED will only light up if the current goes the right way, meaning from the positive of the battery to the positive of the LED. You can read more about LEDs on wikipedia.

Photo: Wikipedia

How to light up two colors not at the same time, but on one circuit?
For this you need a two way switch, so when it is in position 1 the current flows thought one circuit and in position 2 it flows thought the other. I think of it like train changing tracks :)

I also did this for my portal gun when I first built it. 

How to make something spin?
For this you first need a small EL motor, if you put power to it it will spin and if you reverse the power direction it will spin the other way. 

But how to make it spin both ways without flipping the battery?
For this you need a switch that can turn the current flow for you, a normal three way switch won't do that. You need a DPDT switch. 

This is a rough sketch of my diagram, showing one battery, one switch, one el motor and yellow and blue lights. For my actual circuit the led will be set in parallel as it draws less voltage. 
For this test I have only added two blue lights, one to glow when it spins clockwise and the other to glow as it spins counter clockwise. For my final circuit I added two blue/yellow for the front, one blue/yellow for the symbols indicating if the staff is healing or boosting, and two yellow (only) for a "on-indicator" lights that glows yellow for both options. 


And here's my first demo after getting the parts together. 

To make it light out through the tip I made the base of the tip out of transparent plastic. After building the staff I found this switch over at adafruit that could have helped a lot :)

Then the build
Okey, I now know hot to make it spin and glow, let's build the body of the staff to have something to put the electronics in ;)

To be able to transport my staff I divided into three using soda bottle caps as my was of attaching them together again. The staff main body is made out of a pvc pipe with details of foam and worbla wrapped over. 

The light up control panel with the healing/damage boost symbols. 

All the electronics were embedded in the first third of the staff. 

To make the front part spin I had to make sure it was as light weight as possible. And I needed three identical parts for the "wings". Therefore I made a base in clay (with a core out of tin foil).

Then I wrapped worbla around the mold, peeled it off and got a hollow shape. Did this two more times and I had all three. Then very carefully I added the underside. 


The "wings" are attached with 3 mm bolts so they can be takes off for easier transportation. 


Now we are ready for painting, all parts were spray painted dark grey and white. 




Adding more shading and details. The battery can be changed from the first screw joint. 




Final staff


If you are interested here's the full tutorial video. 

Building Mercy's wings (Overwatch cosplay)

Another reason I wanted to make Mercy is that I have never made wings before and thought this could be a great challenge. Also these mechanical wings look really cool. Here's the tutorial forthe staff and the rest of the costume.

They also look heavy. And for my first iteration did not make the yellow feathers, which is not a problem as Mercy also walk around with the "feathers" turned off. But I did include the feathers for my upgrade before thte CSPLY.eu photoshoot.

The build The first thing I did with wings was to make a simplified blueprint (outlined using vector drawing) scaled it up to my body size  and printed it out. This blueprint would be my guide. 

Then I had to think about how I would attach the wings to my body and flag pole holders embedded i the back piece was my solution. 

The back piece for Mercy is not that big to begin with and I wanted to keep it as small as possible. 

To add support I screwed the pole holders to a Plexiglas plate


And built the rest of the back piece around it. Starting with cardboard to get my overall shape.


Adding foam to build up details.


To make it sturdy to be able to hold the weight of the wings I covered in in worbla. 

Painting. I used spray paint and it is still a little too shiny. Must remember to put on a matte clear coat.

I built both the wings and the back piece simultaneously to know that they would fit together. Here is a sum up of the wings. 

I had my blueprints

Which I traced over to 10 mm foam board. Also known as Kapa 

I used an electrical saw to cut out the pieces. (Still took forever)

Layout test

The attachment between the wings and the back piece was made from the rest of the flag pole (eg. an alu pipe). I drilled small holes down the pipe which I would press nails thought to get it to get stuck to the foam board. 

Adding nails

Gluing the pieces together. 

For the top part of the wings I needed a double curvature piece. To make it I took a PVC pipe and added ting foil and masking tape to build up my shape. If I had more time I would have made it smooth, but when in a rush this worked. 

Then I added worbla over my mold.

 New assembly test


 To smooth out edges I used paper mache.

 Started with painting

In the middle of the wings there are two other complex parts which also have a red light in them. I build the base out of 5 mm foam board and covered it with worbla. Then I carved out a hole for the lights and filled it with polymorph. 




The finished wings, at least the first iteration until I make the yellow feathers.

Photo: Håvard Staub Nyhus
Photo: Håvard Staub Nyhus 

Yellow feathers :D
To be able to move around I scaled them down a little. I used a 2 mm clear acrylic sheet (only thing that you can buy in the city center of Oslo). The feathers were spray painted yellow.



The final wings
Or maybe I will upgrade them with lights, because everything is better with more lights. 

Photo: Håvard Staub Nyhus


(I was so tired of my wig at this moment, so here's a red headed Mercy) Photo: Håvard Staub Nyhus


Photo: Håvard Staub Nyhus

Mercy cosplay from Overwatch

I set an impossible deadline for this costume and I got sick while building it on top of that. I did finish it in some degree I might add, but I have several things that both need to be upgraded and added. Here's the tutorial for the wings and the staff

Photo: Håvard Staub Nyhus

Never the less, I shall write how I made my first attempt. Because there are several parts I am very pleased with, among others the wings and the staff ;) 

The costume consists of several components and here's the walk through of how they were made.

The halo
I spent a lot of time thinking about how to secure the halo to my head so it would not fall off, but still not have a visible band going over my wig. 

My solution was a broad piece of worbla shaped after a Styrofoam head and with an elastic band in the neck. The halo itself would also be build out of worbla and would adhere perfectly to my base. The Halo is hollow making it both lightweight and with room for electronics. Two red LED were embedded into it. 





Photo: Håvard Staub Nyhus

The neck pieces
I wrapped a Styrofoam head in duct tape and cut it up to get my pattern. 

My tape pattern.

It was sewn togerther as a corset with el strips as boning. 

The larger collar was made with layering a cardboard and foam and then covering it with fabric :)




The collar closes with Velcro in the front. (making it easy to take on and off)



The arms
I dip dyed yellow cotton to a red ombre (for both the arms and the skirt). 


Adding a white pattern

Using iron transfer paper I printed the logo for the arm and ironed it on.



The finished arms. I kept them separate to the suit to easier be able to the clean the suit. 

The skirt
Same dip dye as with arms. (Dylon color)


Foam added to the hem


The foam was covered in wood glue and later painted silver. 

The bodysuit

For the first iteration I tried to integrate the chest plate into the body suit. This did not yield the result I wanted so I made a chest plate out of worbla for the next iteration. 

The rest of the suit parts were sewed on a leotard. 

The "side wings" are made from cardboard and foam and covered in fabric :)

Chest piece
The tutorial for the back piece is covered in the "wings tutorial". I started with two basic mirrored shaps of worbla. 

Using acrylic spheres I shaped the worbla into boob cups (this is not the best photo explaining this, see my Demon Hunter tutorial for more info on making chest armor).
The shoulders were made from layering foam and covering it in worbla. The shoulders were also attched directly to the chest piece. This way I would always be sure that they stayed in the right position. Here you can see the chest piece being covered in wood glue to smooth out the surface. 


After glue it was spray painted white and detail painted with acrylic paint. 
The tutorial for the back piece is covered in the "wings tutorial". 


The leggings
I laser cut the pattern and spray painted a pair of brown leggings with a gold spray.


Leg bracers
Made from worbla with a foam core. 



The shoes
Base shoes with soles painted orange

The gloves
Because I had so little time I used a pair of plain black gloves and glued on pieces of foam painted silver. 

All the finished pieces ;)

And my finished costume

Photo: Håvard Staub Nyhus


Photo: Håvard Staub Nyhus

Adjutant cosplay from StarCraft 2

Adjutant head piece

I have wanted to make an Adjutant cosplay for ages, and finally I figured that I would try. 

Other tutorials you can find here: Back/chest armor, shoulder armor and other parts

First off: the head piece. 

I started with a Styrofoam head and covered it with worbla, then I had a base to add other details on. Because I'm cheap I use a base of cardboard for some of my details instead of double worbla layer or craft foam core. 

Then I slowly add details. 

And this is how I made the "Mohawk". A cardboard stencil
Covered in worbla and folded

Then the edges are folded in. 

And the Mohawk suddenly appeared. 


More details and tubes. 

And even more details. 

The mic ready with lights (but no sound).

First layer of Gesso

And some silver paint. 

And some detail paint

Adding some lights and the rest of the tubes and we are ready to go. Here you see the jar with threads on the end, so the tubes can be screwed into the back armor. Here it is sadly a little broken after transportation. 

Close up of the threads. 


I couldn't make out what it was written on the ear pieces so I decided to put down CHRIX12 instead (12th is my birthday)

And this is how the head piece looks when it is blended with the gelatin forehead.
Photo by Pål Andresen
A few more angles for you
Photo by Pål Andresen

Photo by Pål Andresen 

 Photo by Pål Andresen

Adjutant Chest Armor

Of course I had to choose another cosplay with incomplete reference photos. And a character without arms or legs, hmm interesting. 

The StarCraft Adjutant Cosplay has been done before, in the style of a ball gown, I on the other hand want to make it more like a space armor cocktail dress ;)

Starting off with the chest plate. First off I will be making Second Great War Adjutant and notAdjutant 23-46, but I will use it as inspiration for the parts I cannot see on my reference photo. 

Chest armor and Worbla
For the front I needed boob cups, so I shaped the worbla over a plastic sphere (my codex staff to be exact)

And pieced together. Since worbla is a little difficult to get hold of here, I am only using one layer to make it last longer. And I do regret that somethimes, when it gets too wobbly. I also didn't have a pattern, but tried and reshaped it all the way. 

Adding details

The back
You can't really see the back, so I designed it as a space armor using reference photos from other space suits from the game. So in theory this is my original design. 

And using pizza boxes a supporting material to the worbla.

One idea I had was that you could attach the cables coming out of my head to my back, so I used the screw mechanism from a jar, with the lid attached to the back. This makes more sense when the head is finished. 

Used tulle for details

And Lights. For once I can actually take out the batteries. 

Vents on the back - Robots need cooling. 

Adding a few more details. 

Then you need to prime it with Gesso. I like to use a mix of wood glue and gesso during the final layers. 

Then I spray painted it with a silver base color. 

Black weathering and black details. 

The bar code is hand painted. The LED is 3 mm orange. 

Screws were added to get a more mechanical look. 

The threads from a can lid was added to the back construction, so I could screw the tubes from the head piece into the the back piece. 

Adjutant shoulder armor.

Not the biggest piece, but here it is. The shoulder armor for my Adjutant. 

For more tutorials for the Adjutant Cosplay see these: Head PieceChest/back armor and other parts. 

Shoulders Again this is worbla wrapped around a cardboard base, and I shaped the top over an easter egg I had laying around.

For the circular shape I used a hair product box and shaped the worbla over it.

Added a few LED

More Gesso. 
Silver base paint and black wash. Details with acrylic paint and silver marker. Four 3mm orange LED for each shoulder. Finished off with a clear coat. 

The shoulders are attached to the chest armor with this Velcro solution and D-rings, keeping both the chest, back and arms together.  

This piece actually holds the chest and back armor together over the shoulders as well, so the shoulder armor won't slide down because it is then attached to the upper body armor. 

Adjutant random parts

Before I started on this Cosplay I had only seen one other do it, and she ended up winning the Blizzcon contest in 2011, talk about though act to follow. She made her costumes to more of a "ball gown" where as I wanted a more couture look with mine, with a slimmer skirt inspired by in-game photos. 

I have written tutorials for the head piece, shoulders and the chest armor. This is a sum up of the rest of the parts including: 
  • Corset
  • Neck corset
  • Makeup
  • Arm pieces
  • Wire skirt
The corset.
I have written several other tutorials about making corsets, but the details worth mentioning here is the stomach piece and the wiring. There is actually glowing wire here. (El wire)

Adding a zipper in front so it would be easier to take on and off. 

And a small armor piece is attached with a D-ring and velcro. 
The neck corset. 
So I didn't take any wip photos while making the pattern, but in theory I wrapped my sisters neck in tin foil, and added masking tape on top. Then I could draw out where I wanted the lines to go. Then cut it to pieces and I had my pattern. 


Finished. The boning are bits of wire and the method used is similar to how I make ordinary corsets.  

This costume includes a lot of makeup, I don't have step by step photos (because I had very little time when I put it on the other times). First I need a gelatin prosthesis to cover my forehead and hairline so my face blends with the head piece. See this tutorial on how to make gelatin pieces
I used a grease base silver face paint, but to get it to "pop" i base coated my face with white creme makeup first.  And Kryolan it is. 
Then I added black details with a brush and water based color (easier to apply). 
And last, the real job, with black and grey eye shadow add shadows along every line (along the nose, under the eyes, along the black lines). You also need to "dull" down that silver color so it matches the rest of the armor. Trial and error here guys. 

Blue contacts and false eye lashes finish it up. Remember to seal with transparent powder and fixing spray.  

Photo by Pål Andresen
And just for you guys, funny photo of my taking off the head piece while the forehead is still stuck. 
I am so tired here :p
Arm wires. 
Just "arm warmers" with different colored string sewn in. 
Wire skirt
Then we have the skirt. The best is worbla again, with a clip lock. Several attachment for the tubes are added. The tubes them selves are a type of isolation tubes, some of which I sew mesh fabric on. 

Not perfect, but I had to include the Terran emblem somewhere. (a little rough around the edges, but I didn't have a smaller brush atm)
And I used my fab Black Milk leggings as a detail. When I update this I will definitely improve the skirt, need more tubes. 

Qunari cosplay from Dragon Age Inquisition

Cosplay inspiration just creeps up on you. My sister, Bettcanard, does these monthly makeups and then she made an amazing Elf Inquisitor from Dragon Age Inquisition. 

Photo: Rojano Photo 

It looked so good I begged her to put it on again (and we are talking four hours of makeup and dressing). But she agreed and I made a Qunari so we could get some photos together. 

This were a really fast cosplay, because we decided that we were gonna do this like two days before a convention. So I used what I have and what I know - recycle :D

Most Qunari designs I looked at showed their tummy, I don't really do that (comfort zone and such). But I was working on a Lady Sif corset at the time which works both in colors and aesthetics for Qunari armor. For more about hoe I make corset take a look here

I had the necklace from my Morrigan costume already, see here for how that was made. For shoulder armor I folded black fabric and sewed it together in an overlapping pattern. The chest bind were also just black fabric with gold bias tape draped around by chest. (no pattern, just trial and error) 

A costume is in the details ;) The Inquisition emblem was a house warming gift from Karin Olava - Now used to hold my sash together. I also borrowed her staff for this cosplay, which just happened to be in my apartment (still is). So much easier to pose when you have a prop.  
My sister had a white wig from a Kida cosplay which she let me restyle as I felt like.  

 The only new thing for this cosplay was the horns (and the makeup). The horns are made from tin foil wrapped with masking tape and then the details were added with a glue gun. I used a sponge to to the gradient effect from light to dark grey. Here is another tutorial for how to make horns

And I had such a fin time cosplaying together with my sister :D

Photo: Rojano Photo 
I must show you more photos of this awesome makeup



Runestaff of Nordrassil

For the Frostfire Regalia costume I build for koogco.no I also made a staff and decided on the Runestaff of Nordrassil. 

This is a walkthrough of how I made the staff, see here for tutorial on the rest of the costume
As usual I started with a cardboard tube. 
Since i knew I would have to hide a battery and still be able to change it, I made a way to unscrew the bottom of the staff. This I did by adding a bottle to the end, and attaching the endpiece to the cork. 

The endpiece is quite larger than the cork so I build up using the rest of my bottle and padding it with foam. 

After the volume is created I start with tin foil and clay to build up the shape of the ornamented endpiece. 

All shaped out, ready for sanding. 
Since this piece would be the resting point of the staff (eg. touching the floor and holdeing the weight) I covered it with worbla to make it more durable. 
With the bottle mechanism in plase I can now start addind lights. 

The staff will have three small gems sticking out in the middle, a glowing orb and a orange gem on the top. Here are the placements of the lights befor adding the bling. 

The three smaller gems are just made from hotglue packed around the LED. This will diffuse the light. You can also use polymorph or a resin gem, but this was a fast and easy way to get them in place. 


The glowing orb is made from an acrylic sphere which I sanded down to diffuse the lights inside. I used a dremel to cut out holes so it will fit to the staff base. 

Light test without paint. 

To get the color and pattern I painted the orb on the inside with acrylic paint and used a marker for the symbols. 


More light tests in dark and light room. 


The last gem was made from a resin cast. I used a two part silicon putty to make mold of a generic diamond shape. Then I used Crystal clear resin to cast a flat gem shape. 


Staff skeleton. 
With foam I build up the basic shape of the staff. 
Tin foil and clay was used to make some of the more defined parts. These were sanded down and covered in worbla. 


When the body of the staff was ready every detail were covered with worbla. This makes it much easier to add more worbla details later (as worbla glues to itself very well). And make the staff itself more sturdy. 

Here I have base painted the staff in a brown base color using acrylic paint. 



With a vintage gold paint and a sponge I slowly add details to the top. The gem is painted red with glass paint from the back side. 


And with blue, grey and silver paint I added the rest of the details. 

The stem of the staff has a wood texture. This is created with glue from a hot glue gun. Strips of blue cloth were added. 

And the finished staff. 






Frostfire Ragalia (wow) cosplay

I was contacted by koogco.no to help bring a cosplay to life, something iconic spanning at least 20 years back in time, for an advertisement series they are making for Noroff

We ended up with wow. Next requirement was keep the outfit modest (no overly sexual appeal or weapons) A mage with a magical staff, namely Tier 3 Frostfire Regalia with the Runestaff of Nordrassil staff. 

This is a walkthrough (not a complete tutorial, because this was a project with a very short deadline, so I have taken a lot of shortcuts) of how I made the Tier Set, for tutorial on the staff see here.
In this tutorial I will show the making of the pauldrons, corset, bracers, skirt, apron and belt, hood and collar piece. 
This is very popular in the cosplay scene at the moment, and I always wanted to try. 
I started by making my shapes in clay, or finding a suitable object which I need the details of. 
Then you need to make a silicone mold. The silicone I bought was a two component putty (felt like chewing gum to work with) So I didn't need a box to hold up really runny silicone in. You just knead the two parts together (equal amount) and pack it evenly around the object you are casting. 

The silicone cured in a couple of hours. Then I mixed up a resin. Make sure you read the hazard labels, some of these can be really bad for you. 

Two parts A and one part B poured onto my molds. To make sure I didn't make too much I first filled my molds with water and measured how much they contained.

After 24 hours I had a crystal. 



But I wanted lights in my gems. Sadly uncured resin is very runny and my LED would drown or fall over on its own. So I used my solder set to hold them in place.  

When done I painted the back with nail polish (good coverage).


To get a base to work with I laid paper mache over balloons. 

This gave me a great shape

Two shells were used for each side with 10 mm clearing in between (to make a little more volume).

These pauldrons have several spikes and crystals. To start with the spikes and icicle shapes I used Polymorph and Coolmorph. I will write another tutorial about the difference. 

In short, this is a thermoplastic in pellets, when heated (eg. warm water) they turn transparent and playable. 

Then you can knead them to the shape you want. They also stick very well to worbla. When cool they turn opaque again .

Pauldron taking place. Worbla is added to the sides and polymorph to the ends. 

Resin gem and strips of worbla added. More info on how I cast the resin gems a little further down. 

Crystals added to the top. These are made from taking a silicon mold of an excising crystal and then pouring a two part resin into the mold. As the resin was curing I added a small dome made from polymorph to it. This created a hollow room in the crystal as well as embedded polymorph which made the crystals sit better til the top of the pauldron. The top was first covered in "coolmorph" (more sticky) and then the crystals were added. 



Since the crystals are partly hollow i inserted a LED from the underside. Great effect. 

The other gem also glows beautifully. 

Then we have a plain base paint in the color scheme of the Tier set. 

Shading and highlights make all the difference. I'm not super happy with this paintjob, but the deadline was approaching at warp speed and I had to call it done. 

The pauldron to the left has lights on and the other without. The effect is nor so great in daylight, but at evenings or dark con halls they look amazing. 



For fast and easy bracer to an affordable price go for cardboard. 

Foam covered in paper mache was added at the ends. 


The same shade of grey faux leather covers the mid section. 

Foam details in the making



A little paint. 





I have written much about corsets before. I used the pattern from my Demon Hunter corset and boned it with plastic strips. 


Then I just trimmed away the edges to get the shape I needed. 

Faux leather and bias tape. 


I used a marker to add the dark grey details. 


Skirt and front piece
I started with creating the pattern for the fron piece. 

Transfer the shapes to faux leather. 

And trimming with purple bias tape. 

Light blue foam was added as details. 

And grey markers were used to make the details. Two more gems were added. 
The skirt was just a a-line skirt from dark blue cotton canvas. More grey faux leather details were added. 





A large dramatic collar on the back of the costume. Made by making a pattern in paper and transferring that to cardboard. Then covering the cardboard with grey faux leather. 
Several layers of colored foam was added. 

And the last details were made with markers. 

Hood and crown






Test assembly. 

Full assembly






And here is the finished advertisement for Noroff. The ad says "Nobody was surprised when Julia wanted to study at Noroff" which is a creative school in Norway. I'm hoping to do a photoshoot with this costume myself also. 
Photo: Sigve Aspelund/Tinagent

Vi from League of Legends - How to build the Hands

How to build Vi hands from League of Legends

I have gotten many request to make a tutorial for how I built my Vi hands. As always my documentation skills are not sufficient, but I will try to cover this build as best I can with some simple hand drawings. There is also a part two where I upgrade the hands.

These are my hands (a little flat at this point in the build)
Photo: Pål Andresen

I made my hands based on the concept art and not the in game model, there are some differences and in the end I thought these looked better. 

To make the build easier I divided the hands into four parts as shown under. 

The core is the bottom base with the pistons and "the tube" where you put your hands. The core is attached to the knuckles, where all the electronics are hid. All the fingers are attached to the knuckle. And on the back there the pressure gauge is placed. 

I will also try to explain the mechanics of the fingers and electronics. 

Foam mat and cardcoard for the base, and a cylinder for where your arms will go. 


The pistons are made of several sized cylinders inside each others (like toilet paper cores)

In one of the picture above you can see an early stage of the knuckles. These are made out of Styrofoam and cardboard. In principle I used this shape to build it. 

The red circles are "those small white dishes you get at a cafeteria". Gotta love recycling. 

I wanted the fingers to be able to move. To make it easier for me the thumb is static. My idea was very simple, a finger with three hinges and a fishline attached to the first joint. The fishline ends in a metal ring so I can control it with my own fingers. 

So I made eight cardboard fingers as shown under. At every joint there is a spring on the underside and a elastic band on the over side (as to stretch the fingers out automatically) 
Above the hinges I glued on a bit of folded foam mat painted gold. 
The fingers are attached to the "knuckles" using contact glue and hot glue. 
I move the fingers by pulling the metal rings that are attached to the fishwire. I have tried to illustrate it better in the picture below. 

And here are the metal rings in the "hand cylinder." I also glued in a small plastic tube for a "handle", makes it easier to operate the hands.  
The back
The back of the hands are made with a cardboard base with foam mat pieces on top. 
The foam pieces were covered with filler, then painted. 

I was mening to cast the blue crystal in epoxy, but I didn't finish the mold on time. That will come in the next iteration. 
The pressure gauge is made with a paper needle and and a nail. The "glass" is simply a circle cut out from the lid of a take away sushi box. But any transparent plastic will do. Around it I have just used a strip of foam.
The electronics
In the hollow part of the knuckles I hid a battery and lined up four red and a blue LED in series with a switch on the front. Gives a little extra while standing on the stage in the dark. 

The result (after upgrading, more info under photo)
Photo Joacim Schwartz
More dimension
In short add more foam, which means everything have to be repainted. I only had to build up on the very top and the lower part of the hand, and to make it a little easier for my self, I covered some of the surfaces with card board. This is because the foam is very porous and it would take some filler to get that smooth surface which again means more weight (I am a puny girl, make it light weight please).

Close ups of what have been added. 

Then I evened out the surface with filler and repainted the body. 
And this is why you should weather and add more than one color. On the left mono chromatic gold, on the right gold, warm brown and dark brown (and still more to come)

That blue crystal
I made a mold for either vacuum shaping or cast in resin. My first attempt on the resin cast was a failure, and since I finally found a workshop with a thermo vacuum machine this would make a more light weight crystal. (I'm not kidding, every gram counts for me when carrying these).

The crystal was made with paper clay around a tin foil core, sanded down and covered in spray paint (gold was closest apparently).

The cast/pull was made from transparent thermo plastics which I spray painted blue on the inside. 

The fingers
The springs I used initially did not create enough tension to flex the fingers, so I added small strips of plastic (from el strips actually) 
The fishline going through the finger

And the fishwire goes into the base and a key chain ring.

I even filmed and tried to explain better how they work. 

Make it steam!
I am a sucker for extra features, it already glowed and moved the fingers, so the next level is making it steam like it does in the animated login video. 

Luckily the base of the hands are hollow, so I have room to integrate the steam system. You can see the result in the video of my performance a little further down. Later I will film the gloves close up and how the steam works.  

How did I do it you wonder? I started with a smoke detector tester which emits a non toxic gas. 

To activate it I used a small model plane servo, a battery pack and a servo tester, because the servo doesn't start spinning unless there is a signal telling the rotor which position it shall stand in. Just hooking the servo to a battery just won't do it (I learned that from trial and error).

Then I just needed to attach the servo to the spray can nozzle, clay and gaffa did it. In the video below you can see how it works before I install it inside the hand. 

My Fantastic smoke effect. 

Photo: Tobias Keijser

Finished hands
This is how it looks now with integrated steam, lights detailing and the shit. And a video of my performance, steam in action. 
And here are a few shots of the upgraded hands

Smash rock!
Vi cosplay
Photo by: Joacim Schwartz

Also Ryan Brandt made a genderbender version of Vi and posted a youtube video of his experience and thoughts about the build process. Might be useful to get a few more pointers to ass even more details. 

Vi from League of Legends

Here are several tutorials for how I made my Vi cosplay :D

How to build Vi shoes
This is a tutorial for how I built the shoes for my Vi (League of Legend) cosplay. 

For my first iteration of my Vi costume I didn't have the time to think about the shoes. But now I do, and they need to be ready for Närcon and NCC

These are the shoes on the in game model which I used mostly as a reference. (Again I want the splash art shoes, but they are not visible)
Chrix Design
Ingame model from lolking.net

I started of with a pair of wedge heels shoes.

On the heel I build up with foam mat pieces.

And added a piece of cardboard over

 Then I build up with foam on the fron of the shoe

 And covered the foam with cardboard.  

Next I took a piece of thin foam (yoga mat, yes really) And covered it with black faux leather.

And glued that part to the front of the shoe

 Then I covered the heel with the same black faux leather
For texture and detailing I glued on a piece of grey faux leather on each side of the shoe.
Next up is to clean all the edges and prep the shoes for painting. I will first try to even out the black shade and then detail it with silver spay paint

Silver highlights

More shading

How to style Vi wig

Getting a pink wig is not the hardest part of a Vi costume, but I still spent a lot of time finding the right color and shape, so why not share this information with other Vi enthusiasts. I bought a dark rose red wig on ebay. And then you have to style it and I just found out a great way to make dreads and the side cut - Needle felting!

And if you want to see how I build the rest of the costume - tutorials here. 

Starting point: plain wig
Then I cut off the hair on the left side (from Vi's perspective) and dyed the hair brown using acrylic color. The back and side is styled using hairspray. 
But it still looks like you cut and painted you wig, the hair gets stiff and the wig net might be visible. And from the in game model you can see that the side cit is trimmed very short. 
Screenshot from lolking.net
After using the wig once I found out I could make the side cut much better by using brown wool and needle felting. Needle felting means that you use a needle with tiny notches and you pin the wool several times until it gets compact (felted). 
In the picture below I have added wool directly onto the wig and felted a small area where the needle is located. 
Fully felted. I might blend in some more color to add some depth to the side cut later. 
(letting the pink show trough just a little bit)
For the dreads I only used the pink extensions first and I tried to section them using hair products. This did not work so well. So why not needle felt these too. And they looked so much better after felting pink (with some small sections of deeper and lighter pinks) wool around the extension. 
Extension attached to wig (The color looks a little off in this picture due to different light conditions).

Pink wool and needle

And the ends of the dreads looks better than just straight cut off extensions. 

First test with goggles, purple lenses and newly styled wig.
(not very purple effect from these lenses) 

Build Vi goggles, simple walkthrough

How to go from this generic punk goggles to a pair good enough for Vi herself, in this tutorial I will cover how to build Vi goggles. For the other tutorials click here. 

There aren't that many good photos of the goggles I want to make (since as always the in game model is different)

But this lovely pair made by Vensy Meow on etsy made everything much easier for me.

Goggles by Vensy Meow

I wanted my glasses to be cheap and quick to make. So I started out with the most generic "punk" goggles you can find on ebay, added some paper clay, sanded it down and painted it gold.

Paper clay

Remove the padding (it was too big). Add some smaller padding and paint the outer edges black.

There are still some detailing and last touches needed, but this is roughly how I did it. (yes, I got gold paint on the lenses, derp). But that gold mist can be removed with nail polish remover, see result under:

How to build Vi chestplate

For this chestplate I finally got a chance to use Worbla (I bought it from coscraft). Preveously I have biuld the chest armor for my Dovahkiin costume, but that was a raw and unprecise methode (although very cheap)

My other Vi costume tutorials. 

So Worbla it is! If you haven't heard of this material before let me give you a few facts. It is a thermoplastic sheet which can be heated with heat gun or warm water. the material then gets flexible and can be shaped, bent or molded in any way, and even better remolded if you need the materials for something else later. You only need scissors to cut it, and all leftovers can be molded together so you don't waste any material.

You should check out Kamui's video tutorials. She uses a double layer of worbla, but I am only going to use one layer and reinforce it with a fabric lining later.

I was going to build this

There are some differences between the in game model and the splash art, but since there is only one photo of the version I want I had to supplement the design with details from other photos.

Step one: make the pattern, I just traced a bra ;)

And cut out the shape in Worbla. Then I heated it and shaped it around my body. This would have been easier with a manequin.

For the cups you can use whatever half spheres you can find in the right size. I ended up with using the paldrons from my big sister costume as a base. For good measure I sprayed cooking grease on my mold. When the piece of worbla was warm and plyable I used my hands to shape it over my mold. Be careful not to stretch it too much as it will get thinner and eventually tear.

To attach the cups to the rest you simply warm up the edges and worbla will stick to itself, no glue needed. And it sticks surprisingly well together.

 Careful not to tear it.

then I covered the top with masking tape to draw up the details.

 Transfer the pattern to worbla and cut out.
 Warm up the pices and squeeze on the chestplate.

During the process some bulks appeared, but just reheat that area and use you hands to smoothed the bumps out.
I looked for tips on how to paint worbla online, but the results were scarce. Luckily I was got to meet Kamui in person and ask her directly how to best paint worbla. 

The surface texture of worbla is a little rough, and even though Vi has a pretty worn armor it needs to be smoother. So I primed it with Gesso (bought at panduo in Norway). In the picture below I have ca seven layers with gesso painted on with a brush. Sand down before paint. 

Another tip from Kamui was don't glue anything on with hot glue if you can avoid it. So the D-ring on the back is attached with more strips of more worbla. 

This material sticks very well to itsef when warmed up, there is no chance that these will fall off. 

Before painting further I took my dremel and and added some battle scars to the chestplate. 

Sand it down, maybe another layer of gesso and it is time for paint. First a layer of the the same gray shade as used on the hands.

And then a thin layer of silver. 

Detailing - The best part of a prop! Gold is painted on the top with a brush.

And a dark grey wash is painted in the battle scars and along every line.

And every battle scar got high lighting using a silver pen. And last tip from Kamui was seal the paint and detailing with a coat of clear paint. Because why spend so much time to detail something that might wear off. 

And it's done.

Vi pauldrons and leg armor - how to make

To make your Vi complete you need bid ass pauldrons and some leg armor. Take a look here tohow to build te rest of the costume.

For this part I sadly left my documenting skills far away, meaning I forgot to take progress photos. But I managed to scavenge some. 

For my Pauldrons I used first a shell of paper mache (strips of news paper and water with flour works) over a balloon. And then you cover this shell with expanding foam. Kamui have some great videos about this technique. 

And carve away


The expanding foam is full of air pockets and to make it easier to make a smooth surface I'll cover it again with paper mache. And we are in luck, Kamui even has a video about this step too,how to cover with paper mache (since I forgot to take pictures)

And I like to cover my layer of paper mache with filler again to make a really smooth surface. And now sanding. 

To make it easier for myself I covered the "side parts" of the pauldrons with cardboard instead of paper mache. And here stops my documentation of this project. 

All the gold parts are sheets of cardboard. The round piece is thin foam mat (craft foam would work very well). Same goes for the piece sticking out on the end there. The gold on these parts are also cardboard.

 As for the paint I have used the same grey as on the chest piece with a thin mist layer of silver on top. Battle damage is made with black and silver markers. And everything is sealed with transparent paint.

A small tip to make sure the collar of the jacket stays up, attach it to the pauldrons using velcro. 

And this is how gorgeous it looks inside. 

The knee armor
The base again is paper mache over a balloon. The bolts are paper clay and a strip of neoprene around the edge.  

Painted purple...

and weathered. 

The leg armor
The legs are bent cardboard reinforced with plaster strips on the back. I made these before I discovered worbla and I would recommend that instead of card board as these will most probable crack after a couple of uses. 

So this was a very short description on how I made the pauldrons and leg armor. 

I still need to add some battle damage and a clear coat to the leg bracers, but in short this is one way to do it without worbla (worbla will make it sturdier)

Skyrim cosplay

Making props using pizzaboxes and filler - Skyrim helmet

An easy way to make Skyrim helmet for cosplay. I will show several iterations of my cosplay build here

Photo: Grethe Bentsen

Utdate: This is what is ended up looking after the second iteration
Photo: Kake Yamamura/Kakeboksen

You don't have to invest a large amount to make props. This is how I made the standard helmet from Bethesta Elder Scrolls Skyrim. This helmet is made with a short deadline and with limited budget (about 200 NOK)

?Where to start?

Due to a short deadline I used a "Viking helmet" as a base, this one bought at Festmagasinet Standard, in Oslo. And then some work, the horns had to be turned, shortened and tilted.

Next step was adjusting cardboard. These were fastened with tape while adjusting and hot glued it when I was satisfied. For the transition from the horn to the helmet base I used foam mat.


Filler is mostly used to smoothen transitions, fill out cracks and bumps and make a homogeneous surface prior to painting. For larges build up I recommend using plaster since thick layers of filler can easily crack. Therefore use thin layers.

Filler needs a lot of sanding, but the surface of the helmet is rough so I don't have to invest that many hours sanding. (And I was short of time).

Then you need to add texture and details to the horns. I used paper clay, dries fast, easy to mold and can be sanded and painted. I used the back of a knife to mold the horns after applying the clay.


When you have a homogeneous surface then you can prime your helmet. Then two coats of silver paint, remember good ventilation and mask. Check the specifications for your paint, but wait at least a couple of hours between paint coats and the 24 hours before further work.


The best part of making a prop (personal opinion) is weathering, adding dimension through detailing. I used cheap acrylic paint, watered out, painted on and partly dried it off with a cloth Add extra paint in cracks. Volpin have a really good video showing this process in detail.

For the horns I added a shade of yellow paint, darker at the base of each new "layer" on the horns. Extra detailing: blood spatter, less is better. Finish off with a clear coat paint to preserve weathering.

Fus roh dah!

First things first, the horns looks too much like croissants.That must be fixed. And I need more details all over, which means strip down the paint and on with more filler.
 Strip down paint

Adding filler

More details around the edges, made from pizzabox cardboard.
Ready for priming, added axe mark in front. 
Primed, now silver paint
Add black acrylic paint and drag it out, see Volpin's video 
Helmet back
Backside of Skyrim Helmet. I hade received questions about what the helmet looks like from behind. If you have the game you can find a helmet and rotate it. 
Base coat on the horns
One horn ready - I used darker brown and faded it out from each ridge. Add some blood and I'm done
Finished helmet - Female Dovahkiin cosplay
Skyrim Cosplay

Skyrim Cosplay - Steel Battleaxe in progress

I wanted a big weapon for desucon. Therefore I made a Steel battle Axe. I scaled it down a bit so I could get it inside Desucon, because this is a huge weapon.

The blade is made from cardboard.
Skyrim batlle axe
The shaft is made from plain pine rod from local hardware shop. It will show a beautiful wood pattern when painted. 
Another layer of cardboard with foam mat in between. I also used cardboard for the axe edge (not shown on the picture)
 All edges were filled with paper clay which were sanded down, filled up with filler and sanded down again. This took a while, so jumping ahead. It is important to not lose hope at this stage, it will look better. 
After sanding (I recommend a sanding machine) the blade was primed and painted silver. The rod for the handle was painted warm brown using basic acrylic paint. Strips of Skai (faux leather) was nailed to the handle following the pattern from my trace, using furniture nail from Jula.
The end piece is the top of a metal shaker (so I could lean it on the floor without it breaking)
The blade is nailed to the shaft. By using cardboard and filler you will have a very very brittle base. Therefore it won't survive ruff handling. 
Weathering, you may have seen this at my previous posts, all details are painted by hand using my vector axe for reference.
 Full size axe

Bloody deatails
So for my upgrade I will just add more details on top. A quick fix, and I know it would be better if I made it from scratch with worbla and all that. But you know me, I love to recycle (even old props) and using cardboard and cheap foam. So this will be my focus. 
Here I have traced a photo of the ingame axe and carved with a knife the details in foam. These were glued on and every thing was covered in wood glue  to seal it. 

Next up it priming, to get an even color before painting it silver again. 

Then more weathering

And there you go, upgraded, really cheap Skyrim battleaxe. 

Skyrim armor - leveling in smithing

After a while your costumes will start to break and you need to fix them up, or you realize you have learned more and see how it can be improved. Like in real life leveling in smithing. Previously I have redone my entire Tali and Vi cosplay, now it is time to redo my Dovahkiin armor. 

I want to be more true to the studded armor set this time. 
Studded armor from modsreloaded.com 

Studded armor
There are always more details to add. Here I have sewn wide stings along all the sides. 

And I added more fabric and fur to the top

I have mixed between using a iron (steel) cuirass or an old corset, non who were actually the correct part of the armor. So a new corset-belt is being made. 

Liara cosplay

Liara cosplay - Sculpting

You might have guessed that I really like Mass Effect considering that I have already made a Tali costume. But Liara presents new challanges, how to sculpt, how make a mold and how to cast latex. I got much help from the comic on tatterhood.com
Photo: Bioware

And will gladly share what I learn with you, for I have never worked with any of these methodes before. 

Reference photo
You should get hand on as many photos as possible, both for painting and sculpting. A good place to start is looking at the Liara Status in the Bioware Store

I have a tiny head, giving me the advantage of just using a polysterene head as a base, as to cast a mold of my own head. Then I started to slowly cover the head with clay. You should use oil based clay here, since you do not want the clay to dry out. 

So far I mostly used my hands, but for finer details you should use tools. You don have to buy expansive sculpting tools, I have used spoons and other kitchen appliances. But tools do make it easier. Also for the scale pattern I used the netting from fruit and pressed into the clay.
More details. 

Asari headpiece

And remebmer, don't let your clay dry out. I have worked with both oil clay and air drying clay. It was way cheaper to use the air drying kind, so I used that. If you need to take a break, spray it with water and wrap it in plastic film. 

Sculpting is tedious work, you have to be patient and don't give up. I think I used about 15 hours on my first sculpt. And I have redone it, second time took 7-8 hours I think. 

This is my second sculpt. 

NOTE: You should not let you clay dry out. This will make it much harder to get out of your plaster mold. Next step - making the plaster mold

Liara cosplay - making the mold

My head is finished, As described in my previous post about sculpting and it is time to prep the sculpt to make the mold. My plan is to make an inverse mold in plaster, which I will cast my latex head piece in later. Your clay should still be wet and soft at this point. 

Head looking nice

Then I made a dividing wall  out of clay. The first time I made the cast I divided it into four parts. The is not nessesary, so the next time I made it in two parts. 

Also note, this wall is way too low. You shouls have a wall at least 3 cm thick, because you want to make a thick plaster wall. 

I "prepped" the surface with spray on cooking grease, so the clay will let go of the plaster.

1/4 done

To get the mold wall to separate when done I applied (pink) vaseline on the edges of the plaster and added a wall of paper.

Adding dividing wall for two more quadrants.

Here are a few photos of my second try. 

When the plaster is dry, take it off and clean out the clay. This isn't always so easy, so in the next tutorial I will show you how I repaired my first mold after it cracked. 

In my next post I will cover how to finish and repair the mold.

Liara Cosplay - Latex pull

My first pull of the latex head piece was better than I thought (my expectations were low) I used "formgummi" from Panduro.  I used ca 0,5 liter for the first pull, and will use a little more for touch ups and making it seamless when attached to my head. 

To fill up the space in the tentacles I willed them with cotton and painted a coat of latex over. This will help keep them in shape. For areas the need reinforcement I embedded paper towels in the liquid latex (which added thickness e.g. the neck) 

Liara head piece

Latex will stick to itself, to avoid this brush baby powder (or potato flour) on the surface. 

As you peel of the pull brush more powder on the outside
Liara latex

First pull, no adjustments. It looks as though my Liara have been in a lot of battles, I will have to do touch up with latex and brush. And I want to try to get the scale pattern more prominent. 

Liara head piece

Close up you can see a hint of scaling.

It needed a lot of touch ups and painting. Use grease based (since acrylic will peel off) 

This is what a couple of years of cosplay preactice does. This one is painted using PAX, which is acrylic paint mixed with pros aide glue (50/50). It will not peel off and you can easily mix the color you need. 

When the base coat of PAX is on I thinnes out acrylic paint with alcohol and shaded and detailed the head piece. Hoping to make a video of this later. 

Liara cosplay - Jacket

here are some work in progress photos from the Liara Jacket. 

The Jacket

I'm a huge fan of this game and love every character there. Looking back I saw that I have learned so much more and wanted to upgrade my Liara. Here are some photos of my first iteration of the costume
Photo and edit by Heresetai Cosplay

Photo by Karin Olava, edit by me. Paladin by Orion Works

Photo by: Karin Olava Effects. Editing JC, Fandomily Cosplay. Paladin guns by Orion Works. 

 Photo by Karin Olava, edit by me. 
 Photo by Karin Olava, edit by me. 

 Photo by Karin Olava, edit by me. Paladin by Orion Works

Me as Liara and JC from Fandomily Cosplay. Photo by: Karin Olava Effects. Editing JC, Fandomily Cosplay 

Photo by Karin Olava, edit by me. Paladin by Orion Works

Reactor style Easter Egg (Fallout) - How to make

The last of the egg tutorials are here, while here are the one for the pip boy and the radioactive barrel
Since the eggs are kinda a tradition for me, I have made others during past holidays like zerg,pylon and Dragon eggs
But back to this tutorial. As you might have guessed we will again start with a plain egg. 

All I knew before starting was that I wanted a green "manhole" that would glow. To get the green look even with the lights turned off, I lined the "glass" with green cellophane. 

With foam I build up the round shape

Cardboard is used to get a plane, smooth surface and for the glass I used transparent plastic from a sushi "take away" tray. 

Even more green is added. In case you should see though the cellophane I painted part of the egg green. 

Clay was used to build up the manhole and to make it follow the curved shape of the egg. 

And then more foam was used to even out the edges ans surfaces. 

On the back I built a vent with thin foam (and only used a glue gun)

Foam tubes and more craft foam details make out the back of the egg. Real skrews were added to the from of the manhole to bring in a more realism ;) Begore paint the entire egg was covered with two layers of wood glue. This make all transitions between the foam smoother and less porous.

Voila! Pure silver egg. 

With some weathering and a few LED this egg is ready for a photoshoot. 

Smile to the camera!




Radioactive barrel Easter Egg - How to make

This is the second tutorial for my Fallout style Easter Eggs, the Radioactive Barrel style. See here for the Pip Boy Egg and the Reactor Egg

Again, start with a plain egg. 

Since this egg was very much a freestyle I need to draw up what I wanted it it to look like. And I wanted to keep it simple. 

 With 1 mm craft foam I added details in the shape of the radioactive symbol and lined to resemble a barrel. 


The whole egg was painted bright yellow with acrylic paint. 

Then all the edges and symbols were painted black (again only with acrylic paint) Why acrylic paint you might ask: it is chap and easy to clean of the brushes ;) On the side of the egg I have used my glue gun and let some glue drip down the side of the egg to make it look like radioactive substances were leaking!

Wow, they look so plain! Need more dirt :D

So I used the weathering technique again where I smeared on watered out black acrylic paint and wiped of most of it. 

Then I googled radioactive barrel and thought it looked cool with running dirt. 

Texture from turbosquid.com

The result



Pip boy 3000 Easter Egg - How to make

After getting very good feedback on my Pip Boy 3000 prop I got very inspired and made three Easter Eggs in a Fallout style. My tradition is that I every year take a plain Easter Egg and add a flare of geek to it. 

To make the tutorials easier to navigate between I have divided the egg tutorials in three. This is the tutorial for how the Pip Boy Style egg was made, take a look here for how the  Radioactive barrel and Reactor one was made. 

A plain egg is needed. 

I quickly drew on where the details were going to be. 



I actually had a printed Pip Boy screen and took the transparent plastic from a sushi tray to use a glass ;) (high five for using trash).

Then I cut out my shape (freehand style) in foam (1 cm)

Testing with the "screen". 

With hot glue I glued on the foam to the egg, after which I added edges and details with 1 mm craft foam. 

More foam details. 




To made the "interface" of the egg smoother and more durable I added cardboard. 


And even more foam details. Since I already had made one Pip Boy I could use that as a reference. But just bring up any photo of a Pip Boy and work on adding details in layers :)



With a Stanley knife I cut though the foam and divided the egg. I also added a few real screws to the egg to bring a tad more realism to it ;)


Since foam is porous I primed every thing with two layers of wood glue before painting. This makes the surface smoother and fill in gaps. After that it spray painted it silver (remember to use respiratory protection and work in a well ventilated area when using spray paint) 

To bring it to life I used a technique called weathering, which means smear on watered out acrylic paint and then wipe most of it off. The left over paint will set inn all the little nook and cracks.  

Working on small sections at a time, I don't want the paint to dry before I get to wipe it off. 

"Smear on"

"Smear off"

This is the difference between freshly painted and "weathered". 

The finished egg. 




R2-D2 shoes Star Wars

R2-D2 Shoes - How to make

I apparently like to make tutorials for everything, now even how I painted my shoes ;)

But here it goes. A little time ago I saw these super amazing R2-D2 shoes somewhere on the internet (etsy I think). So the idea is not mine, but I will show you quickly how fast the were to make :)

I started with a pair of really cheap white flats from HM. And started tracing the pattern using a pencil, this way I could erase lines I was not happy with. I suggest you find a reference image to look at while doing this.

So with the pattern ready on both shoes I started adding lines with a black fabric pencil. (I guess this kind of ink would hold up better when I started to use the shoes) 

Adding some blue details (still with fabric pencils).  

Both shoes all blued out.  

Then I outlined the blue boxes

Lastly I filled in silver color at the front and that one little red detail. When this was done I sprayed them with waterproofing spray. In Norway it rains all the time, so hoping this will help the ink to stay pretty a little bit longer. But hey, cheap and fast made shoes, still worth it if I only get to use them one time.  

Les mer i arkivet » Juni 2016 » Januar 2016 » Desember 2015
Chrix Design

Chrix Design

29, Oslo

Hello, Chrix Design here. I'm a software tester by day, costume maker by night and a nerd inbetween. Most of my life I have been a little "know it all" and very creative. This evolved into me being a science nerd as a child as well as I sewed my own Barbie clothes. In the end I got a Master's degree in Industrial design engineering from NTNU. My childhood was also full of video games and my first prop came together mainly because I wanted a Portal Gun over my fireplace. I exploited every occasion to dress up and loved making more and more original costumes. It wasn't until 2011 I heard about cosplay, where had it been all my life! I got so many friends with the same passions for games, costumes, craft and books as me. After this I had no more spare time, there was always a costume to build a tutorial to write and new friends to meet. But I won't say no to a round of Halo, an evening of board games or watching old Disney movies. You can contact me at chrix.design.props@gmail.com or via my facebook page.



Siste innlegg

Siste kommentarer